Valle Sagrado Peru

Valle Sagrado

We had a great experience with a super driver named Max who took us from Cusco City into the ancient and beautiful Inca Sacred Valley or Valle Sagrado.

Sacred Valley

The Sacred Valley of the Inca or the Urubamba Valley is a valley in the Andes of Peru, close to Cusco and the ancient city of Machu Picchu which is only reachable by train. The Valley is located in the present Urubamba province. 

Village of Chinchero

The beautiful Sacred Valley was the heartland of the Inca Empire. The Valley was formed by the Urubamba River, also known as Willkamayu in Quechua, the ancient Inca language still spoken today, 

Ch'iqun Andean Mountain 5,530 m (18,140 ft)  

Urubamba means the Sacred River. It's fed by numerous other rivers which descend through adjoining valleys and gorges, and contains many archaeological ruins and villages. 

 The Sacred Valley was appreciated by the Inca due to its special geographical and climatic qualities. It was and is today one of the most important areas for maize production in Peru north of the the Inca village of Pisac. 

Top of the Hill Ollantaytambo

We had an interesting day trip to the sacred valley which took us through Urumbamba and to Ollantaytambo where the road ends. Our driver Max made sure that we saw Chinchero, the Urubamba River and the Ollantaytambo ruins along with hidden old city gates. Urubamba is kind of a modern functioning town so we didn’t spend much time there and headed to Ollantaytambo.

Unfinished Ollantaytambo Principal Temple

Once a country retreat for Inca royalty and nobility, Ollantaytambo is where the Inca also fought some of their last battles, resisting Spanish conquest from the still intact fortress and staggered terraces rising up around the town

Inca Fountain

The huge, steep terraces that guard Ollantaytambo’s spectacular Inca ruins mark one of the few places where the Spanish conquistadors lost a major battle.

Old Ollantaytambo City Gates

The Spanish tried to capture Inca Manco but he flooded the plain below the fortress and Spaniards’ horses bogged down in the water. The Spanish ordered a hasty retreat, chased by thousands of Manco Inca’s victorious soldiers

The Inca victory was short lived though. Spanish forces soon came back with a much larger cavalry force and forced Manco to flee to his jungle stronghold in Vilcabamba.

Inca Carved Granite

All in all we had a fantastic day in the sacred valley of the Inca. It was beautiful, historic and at 2,700 m (9,000 ft), the Valley is lower than the Cusco area which helps if you're not acclimatized yet. We were but we still liked the lower altitude.

Highly recommended!

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MAP Café Cusco

Glass MAP Café

For fine dining in Cusco, it’s hard to beat the MAP Café by Chef Coque Ossio for having ambience and innovative Andean fusion cuisine. Its location right in the middle of Cusco’s best museum makes  it even better. 

Don’t be misled by the MAP Café’s location inside the Museo de Arte Precolombino. This is not like what you find in most museums. The MAP Café showcases one of the finest examples of Peruvian cuisine. The Café’s varied menu comes from the inspired mind of Chef Ossio.

When you enter the central courtyard of the museum, the Map Café appears as a beautifully constructed glass cube that is slightly elevated from the cobblestone courtyard.

In the evening, the interior of the cube is lit by beautiful candles that add to both the elegance and welcoming nature of the Café. The warm candles, the intimate tables, and the live Andean harp helps set the stage for unique fine dining. 

Mushroom Capchi before…

We began our experience with the signature dish Mushroom Capchi, a beautiful mushroom casserole with a croissant-like crust. You break the crust to experience the delicious mushroom stew.

Mushroom Capchi after

Andean Ceviche

We then had Andean Warm Shrimp Ceviche on the Rocks. This dish was literally served on the rocks, as a hot stone was placed perfectly in the middle of the dish. We also loved the Andean Green Cannelloni covered with a delicious sauce.

Andean Cannelloni

Peruvian Lamb

We  enjoyed a perfectly cooked dish of Peruvian Lamb placed on an Inca Corn side dish with a delicious sauce . We finished with a dessert course, that were hot chocolate truffles combined with an Andean fruit and a shot of pisco along with vanilla ice cream. It was so good.

If you are heading to Cusco in the future, MAP Cafe’s upscale fusion menu is perfect for a fine dining experience. The Menu is served Prix Fixe after 18:00 hrs.

Highly recommended!

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Precolumbian Museum of Art Cusco

Museo de Arte Precolombino

The Museo de Arte Precolombino possesses a world-class Peruvian collection that cannot be matched in Cusco. The 12-room exhibition space is located in the Casa Cabrera, a mansion-turned-convent that dates back to 1580. Inside this small Museum, you'll find 450 artifacts including Peruvian ceramics, jewelry, and carvings. The museum's collection spans from 1250 BCE to 1532 CE. It features works from the Nasca, Huari, Mochica, Chancay, and Inca civilizations.

The Museum was originally an Inca ceremonial court built  around 1450 CE. In 1580 it became the mansion of the conqueror Alonso Díaz and by the year 1850 the Earl of Cabrera lived there. It was restored as the Museo de Arte Precolombino in June 2003.

The objects were selected among 45,000 objects located at  the Larco Museum in Lima. The pieces are quite beautifully represented and you're allowed to take photos.

It was hard to choose which objects to show here but these are among my favorites:

Globular Vessel

Globular Vessel, Mochica Classical Period 1- 800 CE:

The manipulation of line over color predominates in this piece. Everything is exact, nothing is in excess. This piece expresses the artists skills and sense of beauty.

Representations of One Person

Representations of a Single Person, Mochica Classical Period 1- 800 CE:

The Mochica introduced a radical change within the art of ceramics. A close observation allows you to appreciate that these are not only sculptures of an outstanding person but these images are actually the same individual whose image was made by different artists at different times.

Fox Jars

Fox Jars, Mochica Classical Period 1- 800 CE:

These are two big Moche jars with human bodies and fox heads. The humans are sitting in the position usually taken by priests, and the outfits show their priestly positions.

Llama Vessels

Camelid Vessels, Huari Transitional Period 1- 1300 CE:

The llama is an Andean camelid that possesses great symbolic meaning and economic importance.These bottles show gentleness and total beauty typical features of Huari Ceramics.

Highly recommended!

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Palacio Nazarenas Highlights

Palacio Nazarenas and Hotel Monasterio

The great thing about the Palacio Nazarenas is that it is such an ancient building with over 450 years of history and stories. The Belmond hotel group has been working over 10 years with archaeologists and historians to present the Palacio as an ancient building with modern conveniences. 

Daniel, our Butler gave us a very informative tour of both the Nazarenas and the Monasterio next door. It was very informative.

17th Century Cuzqueña Style Painted Box  

Holes from Lye Soap on Fountain

In the main courtyard is the the ancient well where the Nazarene nuns obtained water and washed their clothes. There are holes all around the edges of the fountain and it turns out that when the Nazarenes washed their clothes, they used such a strong lye soap that it ate holes in the granite Fountain. Strong Soap.

Distinguished Art Restorer

Restored 16th Century Painting of the Palacio and Monks

We saw the distinguished art restorer Julio Ninantay at work on major wall of murals walking into the old courtyard. Julio has been significant in restoring murals throughout the Palacio Nazarenas complex and sister hotel the Belmond Monasterio next-store. He showed us just how the gentle restoration is done.

Girls singing in Nazarenas Chapel

Coming back to the Palacio one evening we heard an angelic singing coming from the small Nazarene chapel still standing within the old building. As we entered the old doors we found a very charming, very cute group of young girls singing with all their might. The old chapel has been deconsecrated and it is now used for many things including meetings, weddings and singing. It was a very nice experience to happen upon.

Ancient Doors to Nazarene Chapel

We throughly enjoyed or stay at the Belmond Palacio Nazarenas in Cusco Peru. It has everything, high standards, exceptional service and a central location. It has both history and luxury. This is the place to stay in Cusco.

Highly recommended!

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Palacio Nazarenas Cusco

Belmond Palacio Nazarenas

We arrived at the Palacio Nazarenas after our flight landed at Cusco at 15:35 hrs. It definitely lived up to expectations. The hotel is beautiful. Everything is bright, clean and modern while still managing to maintain the character of the original convent and palace. Daniel was our Butler.

Z Collection Suite

We were up-graded from our regular suite to a Premium Z Collection suite. The bed and bedding was very comfortable and the room very quiet. It was huge at 900 sq ft and ran about the length of the ancient part of the hotel. The large marble bathroom was fully equipped with the large shower stall containing both an overhead rain and wand showers. The fully stocked mini-bar and Pisco station was included with the room.

Living Room

We primarily ate breakfast at Senzo here, which has a delicious hot and cold buffet The background Inca harpist provided just the right andina sound to start the day.

Plazoleta  Nazarenas with View of Palacio

The hotel location is ideal. It is located in beautiful Centro Historico of Cusco. it’s on the little Plazoleta Nazarenas, a small square up the hill from Plaza de Armas. 

On the Plazoleta is also the Museo de Arte Precolumbino and the MAP Cafe. El Museo is a highly rated Pre-Columbian Art Museum and the  Cafe is a wonderful restaurant that’s  highly recommended also. There is so much to see and do in this ancient area. We enjoyed both places.

Suite on the Upper floor

The Palacio Nazarenas stands on the site of a former Inca building and reuses stones that were used in the original Inca construction. Shortly after the new building’s completion as a private home in the mid 1500s it had a succession of owners, including the famous warrior and gambler Mancio Serra de Leguizamón, the last conquistador to die in Peru. He is recorded to have gambled and lost the gold Inca image of the sun from the temple of Qoricancha.

In 1644 the Jesuits acquired the property and used it as a school. In 1650 Cusco suffered a devastating earthquake and the building required extensive repairs. It continued as a school until 1673, before being sold to a private owner in 1687.

Bathroom

In 1715 it was turned into “beaterio”, a type of convent for what was considered to be a “lower order” of nuns. By 1977 the last ones had moved out and the building was leased to the Peruvian government who transferred the lease to Orient-Express (Belmond) Hotels.

Following a complex restoration project it opened as Palacio Nazarenas in 2012. The hotel has the first outdoor swimming pool in Cusco. This is the place to stay in Cusco. It has both history and luxury and is wonderful.

Highly recommended!

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Cusco Peru

Plazoleta de las Nazarenas

We left the Marriott Lima around 11:30 to make our 14:15 domestic flight from LIM to CUZ. Lima Domestic was pretty crazy but it all worked out as we got on our plane to Cusco. From Lima, it’s a one-hour flight to Aeropuerto Velasco Astete, located about 3 miles from Cusco. Upon landing at CUZ our Taxi driver greeted us with a sign board and a smile. We took off for the Centro Historico where our hotel was located.

One thing we thought about arriving in Cusco was Soroche or high altitude sickness. After all Cusco is at 3500 m (11,500 ft) That’s high.

La Compañia-Built on Inca Huayna Capac's Palace

After hearing all the horror stories about altitude sickness we talked to our doctor and were prescribed Acetazolamide (Diamox) and started it 2 days before flying to altitude. Took two, 125 mg tablets daily. It worked. Arrived expecting problems but apart from being a little winded walking up hills, we had no problems. The hotel even pumped oxygen into the room 24/7, which really made sleeping very nice.

Took the Diamox tablets for a couple more days and that seemed to be it. If you are worried about the altitude I would suggest seeing a doctor for medication before traveling to Peru.

Cathedral Built on Inca Wiracocha's Palace

Cusco is an ancient city that is wonderful to visit. It was the center of many pre-columbian cultures finishing with the Inca who made it the beautiful centerpiece of the Inca Empire. Until the Spanish conquered the Inca in the 16th century, all roads led to Cusco and the plaza now called the Plaza de Armas.

Statue of Inca Pachacutec over the Plaza

The Inca built this massive square (originally it was twice its current size) as a location for festivals and ceremonies. According to legend, this plaza once marked the exact center of the Inca Empire, earning Cusco the nickname the navel of the world. 

Cuesta del Almirante that leads down to Plaza

Within the square, the 16th century Spanish conquistadors constructed La Compañia and the Cathedral. Both churches reside on the site of former Inca palaces. Now, the Plaza de Armas contains landmarks significant to both Andino and Spanish history. No trip to Cusco would be complete without a visit to the Plaza de Armas.

It was time to get to our hotel. We headed up a little alley called Cuesta del Almirante to arrive at the Plazoleta de las Nazarenas where our hotel, The Belmond Palacio Nazarenas stands in colonial splendor mixed with Inca foundations. This is a very historic place to stay in Cusco. More to come on the Palacio.

Highly recommended!

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Central Restaurante Lima

Entrance to Central Restaurante Lima

The only time we could swing a fancy lunch in Lima was perfect for Central, right around the corner from the Marriott in Miraflores. Central is number 4 on the San Pellegrino list of the top 50 in the world and Number 1 in Latin America. The French Laundry is 49 if that means anything.

Central Kitchen

The cool thing was that the Exec Chef Virgilio Martinez was cooking that day and lunch was beyond compare. We started out in Peru with the best. We’d had reservations for a couple of weeks so that made it easy . We met with Chef Martinez during lunch and we looked forward to his Avant Garde Peruvian food.

Peruvian Bread with Coca Leaves

We were seated quickly, and served some interesting breads with “black” (negro) butter and sea salt, organic extra virgin olive oil, and another butter that was super rich and fatty. The breads were made with Peruvian ingredients, such as the purple corn, potatoes and Coca. We knew we were in for something good.

Chef Martinez Working in the Kitchen

The restaurant was very modern, with an open kitchen behind glass, many employees in a flurry of activity. Exciting place.

Hot Ceviche

We ordered off the menu and decided to start with the “Hot Ceviche” (Ceviche Caliente) which we had seen on the menu for a starter. It was really good, warm and made withe freshest of seafood. They like to serve food on pieces of granite. The plating of the food was part of the experience.

Clam Crudo

Also had a fish and clam crudo starter that that was made with Sweet Lemon Milk, Quinoa and Ginger. It was so good. We’re definitely in Peru.

21-Day Suckling Piglet

For a main course I the 21-Day Suckling Piglet that had Arracacha (root Vegetable from the Andes), Borage (Starflower) and pickled Vegetables. The combination was so good it’s indescribable.  Tami had roasted grouper that came with black quinoa, native Potato and calamari which hit all the notes of freshness and perfect flavor.

Octopus and Scallops

Another dish we enjoyed was an Octopus and Scallops in Purple Coal which was the sweetest Octopus we had ever tasted. Fantastic place.

Highly recommended!

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JW Marriott Lima

JW Marriott Lima

We arrived at the JW Marriott for the first leg of our trip to Peru and we very pleased by the location, service, and quality of food. We had the opportunity to have breakfast and dinner at the hotel and found the meals to be among some of the best we had in Peru

Paraglider Over Beach

This hotel is amazing. Location is perfect. Service is great. We stayed in an Exec suite, and it was one of the nicest hotels rooms we’ve experienced in Lima. Bathroom is comfortable and updated, tub was relaxing, bed was extremely comfortable. 

 Hotel staff was very attentive and professional. They went above and beyond to be helpful.





We were able to visit the executive lounge for breakfast which served a lovely spread. We can't say enough good things about this hotel. We had an amazing view as well.

Miraflores Sunset from Room on 24th

This JW Marriott lives up to its high standards in service and amenities. While it’s a bit awkward to reach the hotel from the airport since its located on top of a cliff, its worth it. There's a couple of u-turns. It’s in Miraflores after all.

The Larcomar Mall in the Cliff

When we arrived, we were warmly greeted and they made our check-in process very fast. The staff at reception and the executive lounge were excellent, friendly and helpful. The rooms were good size, clean and had electrical adapters compatible for all visitors. 

View from Miraflores Park

The location overlooks the ocean and has a beautiful view. Across the street is Larcomar, large brand new outlet mall and restaurants. The hotel is also within walking distance of many local shops and restaurants

We can’t say enough positive things about this hotel. It has outstanding facilities and staff. The room was freshly updated and extremely clean. Bedding was very comfortable. Just what we needed before and after traveling two weeks in Peru.

Highly recommended!

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